The spiritual capital of Morocco is host to more than 300 mosques and medersas (religious schools in ancient times).
The Karaouyine Mosque is the oldest, dating back to the 9th century. Definitely, a major monument in Fez.
In Morocco, non-Muslims are not allowed inside mosques… Let’s be honest, the spiritual discovery of Fez begins rather badly… Unless we look at spirituality from a different angle, that of feeling, rather than that of “visiting’ and “touching”.
I know too well how frustrating it may feel to feel rejected and end up trying to take a glimpse from the doorstep. Yet, in this article I will try to depict the major places that you will only see from far and try to take you in an immersive personal experience, in which you can reach even deeper spirituality.
THE IMPACT OF MARSHAL LYAUTEY ON MOROCCAN SPIRITUALITY
Many Moroccans are still, convinced that keeping non-muslims away from places of worship is a will of the Qur’an.
Yet travellers who have visited Turkey, Syria, or Egypt before, may well consider this Moroccan specificity very incongruous and dare I say, illegitimate.
In fact, this ruling dates back to the time of the French protectorate. We actually owe it to French Marshal Lyautey, himself.
Many tour guides will say that Lyautey enforced this ruling after finding French Soldiers binge drinking in a mosque. This anecdote probably occurred more than once. Yet the ruling takes its roots in more political and strategic issues.
In fact, at the very beginning of the Protectorate, in 1912, the French had to face popular rebellion, in reaction to the French occupation.
Therefore, Lyautey seek a way to strengthen the legitimacy of the Sultan. Hence his aim at reinforcing the traditional character of Moroccan society welded around his king.
By forbidding settlers and visitors to physically penetrate the Moroccan religious and cultural sphere, Lyautey granted the Sultan a power, which he already possessed intrinsically. Yet the result proved convincing and remains to this day.
MY EXPERIENCE OF MOSQUES IN THE SPIRITUAL CAPITAL OF MOROCCO
Initially, nothing presaged me to have the privilege of entering a mosque in Morocco.
However, it turns out that Moulay, my husband, for more than 20 years, originates from an influential Sherifen family of Fez. “Sherifen” families can attest to a direct descent with the family of the Prophet Muhammad. In the spiritual city of Morocco, I let you imagine how much a VIP pass this is. So much a privilege than till the XX, sherifs would not pay taxes at all, in Morocco.
It goes without saying that mosques doors opened to me, as if by magic, after I got married. Yet, it has not always been easy, and I sometimes faced quite incongruous issues… You can find an extract of my diary, telling how I first experienced the Karaouyine mosque.
MOSQUES : A BOTH SPIRITUAL AND SECULIAR PLAYGROUND
Having had the chance to enter Fez’ major mosques, I believe they are clearly monuments that deserve to be visited. I understand the frustration of travellers who, after having travelled thousands of kilometers, end up stuck on a doorstep.
Mosques are fascinating by both their architecture and the living area they provide.
Mosques unless Catholic churches are quite austere. In Islam where reproduction of life is forbidden, Moorish art was built on a brilliant artistic mastery of geometry and colors. Hence, most of the artistic production to admire in mosques lies in architecture. Craftsmen used to give the best of their art in craving plaster and designing mosaics.
Yet, in my opinion, it is the atmosphere that is most striking. In fact, mosques are not only a place of prayer and worship, but they are also a place of life, and exchange, where silence is not rule, and where life breaks out.
To learn more about the mosques of Fez, see our article «explore the mosques».
Some worshippers are praying, or reading the Quran, others are sitting and discussing the Quran, while a group of younger boys discuss secular topics.
On hot summer days, mosques offer shade and freshness. On hot summer days, the mosques’ courtyards provide shade and freshness. In the afternoon mothers meet in the courtyards, like they would at the park. While children are playing hide and seek between the century old pilars, older ladies pray, mothers indulge and small talk; under the carved plaster arcades teenagers stay away, keeping busy on social networks.
A religious atmosphere very much different from the one depicted on Western countries News programs…
THE LIBRARY AND MANUSCRIPTS OF THE KARAOUYINE
The Karaouyine library is located next to the mosque and university of the same name. Culture and spirituality are at the core of this enormous complex, mandated in the 9th century by a woman: Fatéma Fassi Fihri.
Thousands of medieval manuscripts are housed at the library. Most of them are dedicated to medicine, philosophy, politics, arithmetic, and astronomy. Among them, precious books saved from the autodaffes that raged through Europe during Middle Age.
Yet, as incredible as it may seem, the Karaouiyne library is closed to public!
More about the Karaouiyne library in our article « The Karaouiyne library and university ».
WHAT ABOUT THE VISIT OF THE SPIRITUAL CAPITAL OF MOROCCO?
Library closed for some unknown reason. Mosques closed to non-Muslims… I must confess, Spirituality is, definitely hard to meet in the spiritual capital of Morocco…
Yet, does meeting spirituality necessarily mean seeing with your eyes? In fact, isn’t spirituality intrinsically and by definition, intangible?
As a consequence, the visit of places of worship, would become secondary in your quest for spirituality and you might well find at random, during your wanderings within the coated walls and the tortuous alleyways, a share of that wisdom, that enlightened the soul of the most eminent Arab scientists, over a thousand years ago.
In fact, living Fez means transcending modern tourism where photos make law.
Living Fez is precisely a quest intended at rising above appearances. It is a quest of disconnecting.
If you drop your suitcases in Fez with this somewhat mystical spirit, this need to let go, then surely you will find a meaning to life and will give back to simplicity and spontaneity its letters of nobility, which our 19th century has unfortunately much erased.