The tanners of Fez represent the oldest corporation.
Professional corporations were the keystone of medieval cities’ organization. In Fez, these still exist today.
According to oral tradition, the tanners’ corporation of Fez is said to have been initiated by Moulay Idriss, himself. Their existence is supposed to date back to the 10th century.
Today, the visit of the tanneries of Fez is a must. Its colorful, ochre and white basins are regularly displayed on Instagram and have always figured in history books.
THE ORIGINS OF THE TANNERIES
The city of Fez is surrounded by mountains and built on a river. Forests and water are a privileged ecosystem for leather crafts. In fact, the animals of the forest provide the hides, and the water is essential to the multiple washings, rinsing and soaking necessary throughout the tanning process.
In Fez, the tanneries quickly enjoyed an excellent reputation, such, that according to some writings, their hides were exported as far as Baghdad in the early X°s.
Actually, leather craftsmanship has always supported a large part of the population of the medina of Fez. In fact, the tanners’ corporation is at the origin of many crafts-based leather like shoemaking, book binding, saddlery, leather goods, etc.
THE TANNERIES OF FEZ ARE THE MOST ICONIC PLACE.
The tanneries of Fez are the oldest in the world, and they still operate like they did in medieval times. Three are still in operation.
They have been maintained for the purpose of historical heritage preservation. The Chouara tannery is the largest.
Indeed, in recent years, most of the leather industry in Fez has been relocated to peripheral industrial areas. These new tanneries are subject to strict environmental regulations. They modern processes and machines. The industrial tanneries of Fez export 80% of their production to Europe.
Strolling through the streets of the medina, you will cross the souks and bazaars full of carpets, babouches, trays and plenty leather items.
Throughout your visit, you will meet many shop keepers who will invite you to their roof tops overlooking the colorful basins. Don’t be afraid and just come in. However, make sure the shop is close enough from the tanneries, otherwise you will only be able to see from far.
Beware not to be fooled. Merchants expect you to purchase something. yet, don’t forget to make good use of your negotiating skills. The merchant might almost feel offended if you don’t negotiate.
TANNERY STEPS AND PROCESS
Description of the tanneries
On the one hand, you will find the lime basins. In rectangular shape, they are equipped with 2 lateral steps to allow workers to take support with their feet, when they bend down to immerse the hides in the bath.
On the other hand, you will see the round basins with rounded walls. These are dedicated to the dyeing process.
Finally, large flat spaces dedicated to the drying of the hides are organized all around the basin area and on the surrounding roof tops.
The tanning process
The slaughterhouses of Fez and surroundings are the main suppliers of hides to the tanneries of Fez.
First, the freshly delivered hides are salted on both sides. They are then dried for 48 hours before being soaked overnight in clear water basins. This step is intended to make them replenish. At the end of this bath, the hides are cleared of their hair.
Then, the hides are passed through three successive baths. They will first stay several weeks in lime tubs before being rinsed in clear water basins. During this stage, the hardest for the workers, you will see him wading frantically in the basins. This extremely tiring process can last 3 hours. At this stage, lime residues may damage the skin or even cause injuries to the legs of tanners
A succession of various baths, will, then, take place throughout the following weeks. First the droppings of pigeons that give the hides its softness, then the bran bath and finally the tannin bath.
The procedure ends with a pure water wash in water from the river before a proper spin-out. Finally, the coloured hides are laid on the terraces for the ultimate sun-drying.
See what is awaiting you.
YOU WILL NOT REMAIN INDIFFERENT TO THE TANNERIES OF FEZ
I visited them for the first time when I was 10-year-old. I never forgot. Their colors and the pestilential smell are forever etched in my memory.
If you want to enter the tanneries, take a sprig of mint. Usually, it will be offered to you at the entrance gate. This is not an anecdote. In fact, I believe it’s even very important. The smell is really unlike anything you can even imagine. Yet it is an experience worth living at least once in a lifetime.
Now, follow us to the discovery of the medina and souks of Fez.