Need to unwind? Maybe it’s time to take a well-deserved break. The medina and souk of Fez provide the ideal setting for a romantic and exotic getaway.
Stroll and allow yourself to be surprised by the soul of the authentic medieval alleyways.
A journey through time, colours, fragrances and spirituality.
FEEL THE ATMOSPHERE OF THE MEDINA AND SOUK OF FEZ?
When you pass through the door of Bab Boujloud, you are transported 1,000 years back in time. Bustling cafes and local markets, quickly give way to quiet narrow streets. People laugh and argue. Children play and shout, and donkeys carry supplies up and down the twisting alleyways.
Within the pink and nude shades of the mud brick corridors of the old city walls, you will discover a different way to experience Morocco. Get lost in the alley maze. Discover a wide range of architectural gems. Enjoy a glass of mint tea. Loose your head in a carpet shop and experience the unmissable tanneries.
Fez totally embodies the notion of slow travel. You will be mesmerized by the hypnotic feeling provided by the peacefulness arising from the spiritual capital of Morocco.
EXPLORE THE OLD MEDINA AND SOUKS
A little history
The Fez Medina is considered one of the largest and best preserved historical cities in the Arab-Muslim world.
Besides its high density of ancient monuments of various influences (Andalusian, Oriental, and African), the medina of Fez has retained most of its original functions and attributions. Thus, more than an exceptional architectural, archaeological, and urban heritage, Fez conveys a way of life, know-how and culture that have persisted despite successive societal changes.
The initial city, founded by the Idrisid dynasty between 789 and 808 AD, had two large fortified districts, separated by the wadi Fez: the bank of the Andalusians and the bank of the Kairouanes.
In the 11th century, the Almoravids united the city within a single fortified wall. Later, under the Almohad dynasty (12th and 13th centuries), the original city (Fez al-Bali) had already reached its current dimensions. Then, under the Merinides (13th- 15th century), a new city (Fez Jedid), housing the royal palace, the seat of the armies, fortifications and residential area, was erected west of the former Fez El-Bali.
Since then, the two banks of the Fez medina have evolved into one of the greatest Islamic cities, featuring a wide range of architectural details and urban landscapes.
Fez’s medina is fascinating
Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Medina of Fez is the largest pedestrian area in the world. Nevertheless, only a limited number of travellers have made their way to date. Indeed, Fez has often been unfairly shunned in favor of Marrakech, her little sister.
As you walk through the medina, you are literally walking through 1,300 years of Moroccan heritage that has only recently been touched by some travelers.
Fez is the largest pedestrian area in the World, where you will quicky and easily get lost. Yet one small tip: there are two main parallel streets, both are connected to each other by small alleys. Consequently, you can always manage to find your way back. In the worst case Googlemap can always help… Yet, it must be said that Googlemaps definitely reaches its limits in the medina of Fez.
All the way through, you are carried along on a wave of local activities. Donkeys carrying water bottles, construction materials, fruits and veggies. Men responding to the call to prayer. Children running home through the streets after school. Girls and women on the way to the local oven with a tray of freshly baked biscuits on their head. The smell of spices, fish and essential oils… A unique sensory experience!
Stroll through the bazaars and souks of Fez
The upper part of the two main streets -Talaâ Kbira and Talaâ Sghrira- is mainly occupied by low-end souvenir-shops of all kinds. Sometimes even made in… China…
Yet, the deeper you walk into the alleyways, the better the quality and diversity of slippers, carpets, spices and potteries.
It won’t be long until the friendly and welcoming bazarists notice that you actually are a tourist. It is most likely that they will invite you inside their shops for “the pleasure of your eyes”. Do not be afraid. Enter the bazaars, share a glass of tea, but don’t forget to haggle your purchases. The shopkeepers are looking for maximum profit, yet they also expect you to discuss the prices. Sometimes they may ask twice the price they really hope for. It’s up to you to see, test and judge.
Should you be exploring with a guide, the price of your purchases will be inflated by a commission rate. A good official guide will not let you buy a product that is not of quality and will only lead you to bazaars where items are not authentic. Moreover, if you make purchases that requires shipping, your official guide will follow up and make sure that the goods are shipped propertly.
In any case, if you like the ware you have chosen, just look forward to your purchase and be confident.
From Boujloud to the Karaouiyine mosque
When you follow Tala’a Kebira downhill, from Boujloud to the Karaouine mosque, the streets and souks change name reflect variety of ware they are selling or making. Street Chrabilyine reflects the slippermakers. This the place you will find stalls selling babouches (the traditional Moroccan heel-less slippers) and now also modern footwear.
Further down, Aïn-Allou souk, named after a fearful criminal, captured by Moulay Idriss. This is the place for leather good, bags and ottomans.
Continuing, you will reach Souk El Henna where you will find Rachid’s stall. Rachid is our herbalist. He provides Mayfez Spa with organic traditional cosmetics and or kitchen with pure honey and organic spices. Souk El Henna is a lovely tree-shaded courtyard that once was a sanatorium.
Wandering deeper down, at the entrance to the Moulay Idriss Zaouia is a candle souk providing scents and candles to pilgrims.
At last, just before reaching the Karaouine mosque, the large kissaria, covered and rather modern-looking souk selling fabrics, traditional clothing and all accessorizes useful to kaftan making.
If you have the time and courage, continue further down after the Karaouiyine and explore the souk of Rcif, where fruits and vegetables mix with the meat and fish stalls. A unique sensory experience!
Ready for a visit in video? It is in french, but images are worth to give it a go.
MY EARLY DIARY
In 2005, when I visited for the second time the medina of Fez, I wrote the following in my diary, after an unsuccessful harassing house hunting journey through the medina:
« Starring at my dust-covered shoes, silent, sulky and tired, with Moulay -my husband- and the semsar -improvised real estate agent- I get back on the path, which I hope will lead us to this palace which we have been dreaming of for so long…
Reaching the souk of Rcif
We cross the large square of Rcif and pass under the arcades that lead to the market.
On wobbly stalls made of cages and crates, colourful piles of fruits, vegetables, olives, spices, meat, fish… Fragrances mingled with colours to create a display as fascinating as disgusting. In front of the fishmongers’ stall, I hold my breath… A few meters further I think I’ll faint when I find myself face to face with a camel head hanging from a hook. If Ilyes, my 5-year-old son, had been there, I’m sure he would have asked if it was a camel head or dromadery head…
The smells of the souk
The smell of the chickens in cages is the death knell of what is still bearable to me, and I regret very much to have had to catch my breath at that time. I will definitely need to improve my apnea abilities if I have to survive here…
How on earth am I going to make it! Me, the cling film covered tray addict! I can’t help but think that I might well become a vegetarian, should I want to survive here… Anyway… I’ll make up my mind in due time…
Yet, let’s face it, this place is a cat paradise. There are cats everywhere. Four-legged cats, three-legged cats, cats with ears and no ears, fat and skinny cats … So many cats to adopt, I think to myself…
The crowded souks
Taking care not to step on the tails of my kitty friends, I try to fight my way through these howling and gesticulating hordes.
A woman in a colourful djellaba asks for five-kilo pepper. Another, dressed in pink, shouts that she wants six-kilo oranges and that she is in a hurry. A guy, a head taller than anyone else, pushes his way through and yells louder than everyone else, expecting be served first…
Stunned, I watch this picturesque scene, wondering how the merchant manages to deal with these furies, without making calculation errors, which, by the way, he realizes without a machine. Considering that he is enduring this, about six hours a day… I wonder what level of arduousness they would assign to this job in the French pension calculation scheme…
But still, 5-kilos pepper?… What on earth can she well be doing with 5-kilos pepper?… A tray of 2 peppers from the supermarket weights 250gr!
The path up to Moulay Idriss
Once passed the food souk, the medina becomes less crowded.
Under the arcades leading to Moulay Idriss, we stop to buy a liter orange blossom oil for my father in law back in Casablanca.
«Three hundred Dirhams. Arriving directly from Grasse» tells us the perfumer in a perfect French, to justify the price that he considers expensive. I kept quiet, avoiding to telling that I buy ten milliliters for ten euros in Europe… The mysteries of the retail industry, i think to myself…
A little further, Seffarine Square, the copper workers area
I cannot gaze upon the beauty of the lantern and trays without being tempted. Forgotten the archaic butchers, here, it is the best of Arabo-Andalusian art that is on display. I dare to dream of my future home design.
My legs are killing me. We have been walking for almost four hours and have visited no less than five riads; I hope that the one we are heading to is going to is the right one…
Towards Bab Boujloud
Soon we reach Talâa Sghira, one of the main streets of the medina. Talâa Sghrira, means small ascent, in Arabic; opposed to Talâa kbira, big ascent… Well, climb the Talâa Sghrira… you will definitely fell it in your joints and legs!”
THE MEDINA OF FEZ IS FULL OF ALL KIND OF EMOTIONS
You’ll experience all senses, that define us as human beings:
amazement, disgust, envy, pity.
Yet in the medina and souk of Fez, I share, I exchange, and I live.